Milan Fashion Week Spring 2027 Ready-to-wear Presentations

MILAN — With a packed schedule of runway shows and events at Milan Fashion Week, there was little time for the fashion pack to move around gilded palazzos and showrooms and catch up with the latest from several Italian brands.

For those who couldn’t make it everywhere, WWD was on the ground hopping between some of the more intimate presentations. Here’s a roundup that could come in handy next spring.

La Perla

La Perla is back at it, with a new owner and chief executive officer, ready to get the storied lingerie brand kicking again. The first collection dubbed #00 was framed as a teaser or appetizer of evolutions to come, but it was arguably a full meal already.

Delving into the archives, chief product officer Barbara Zappoli and the team of expert seamstresses sought to refresh signature lingerie constructions and techniques in the name of comfort, an obsession of brand founder Ada Masotti.

Women primarily look for feel-good underwear, the no-bra movement is still kicking and shapewear has entered the lingerie space solidly, while undergarments as ready-to-wear and boudoir dressing were all the rage this season. Within this context, La Perla’s proposition was rooted in exquisite pieces, never constrictive and special enough to warrant a new, expensive purchase.

Subtle updates on the brand’s Cornely embroidery came via liquid looking metallic fabrics (no Lurex thread to avoid itching) for slipdresses and tops; bodysuits decked in lace had “brassiere bretel” triangular straps for enhanced support, and Levers lace was cut in scalloped patterns to create a bra cup that had no stitches.

The modern-edged Metropolis range referenced the namesake archival line, but freed it from its corsetry construction, while a tight swimwear edit included cool double-faced bandeau bikinis and out-of-water pieces.

Fabiana Filippi

This Fabiana Filippi collection, called “Gesto — Architecture of the Hand,” had a couture feel and was inspired by wicker weaving traditions in Umbria, on the outskirts of Orvieto. This came through, literally, with a lavish ballgown, cossack hats and statement earrings done entirely in strips of straw-like material. The rest of the collection was inspired by wicker weaving itself, and included white tunic tops, long skirts and short jackets with a cross-hatch pattern and fraying edges, and long fringe dangling from the edges of a skirt with flower embellishment and a chunky white short-sleeve sweater.

The weave also inspired a whole lineup of mesh skirts, tops and dresses. A magnified mesh V-neck sweater came with a long, slim matching skirt, while a sheer, copper-tone dress showcased all different types of geometric knitting shapes, as did a cream-colored top and long skirt. Umbria’s famous wicker weaving also came through in a fun, wicker-style bodice worn over a sharp tailored suit with wide-leg trousers. In this age of AI, nothing can beat the hand, and all of the skill and power that it holds.

Agnona

In Agnona’s expansive headquarters, creative director Stefano Aimone presented a wide collection intended to transition the brand’s customers from the city to placid countryside and sun-lit sea destinations. In this journey, he showcased the brand’s consolidated expertise in coats and suits but also an exploration of lighter weights, in a quest to balance the Agnona offering.

Effortlessly understated, the collection seamlessly blended linen, silk, cashmere and supple leather, with double lightweight cashmere collarless coats, short capes and bouclé cropped jacket signaling the more urban part of the lineup. Technical nylons informing bomber jackets with generous volumes gathered at the back and streamlined parkas cut from technical nylons added to this segment, which transitioned to silk cady duster coats, blazer jackets gently cinched at the waist and polka-dot featherlight tops and pleated skirts.

Such a print gradually gave way to floral motifs — especially charming when translated into embroideries and appliqués on neutral-hued tailoring — or to perforated leather in field jackets and Bermuda shorts that married the luxury feel of the material with airiness. The lightweight feel was amplified by caftan dresses and poplin safari shirts, as well as ajour embroideries and open-weave crochet knits.

“That’s what our customers are increasingly looking for: a product that has to be light and versatile,” Aimone told WWD. The brand recently cut the ribbon of a store in Gstaad and is in progress of inking agreements to amp up its distribution in Middle East starting in 2027. Aimone’s confidence is supported by the performance of the store the company opened in Milan earlier this year, as well as by the growing demand by male customers, who in this collection will find plenty of relaxed tailoring and leather outerwear. Aimone said that while the split in sales for Agnona womenswear and menswear has historically been around 80 and 20 percent, respectively, now it’s shifting to a ratio of 65 to 35 percent.

Des Phemmes

Salvo Rizza stepped up his game with a beautiful Des Phemmes collection presented in the frescoed halls of Palazzo Turati, now housing Istituto Marangoni’s Milan campus.

Inspired by Italian artist Alberto Burri’s intervention on matter and surfaces, Rizza explored the relationship between fragility and gesture via a heavy use of crinkled textures, layering, transparency, overlapping garments and drawstring galore. His investigation recovered deadstock fabrics, here juxtaposed, assembled and elevated to match his signature glitzy aesthetics hinged on crystals, sequins and embroideries.

Raw edges, cuts and visible fraying created a nice contrast with the sparkly embellishments, especially in the closing segment of hard-to-miss minidresses rendered in delicate pastel hues, through which Rizza’s appealing mix of rawness and preciousness climaxed.

Sa Su Phi

Sara Ferrero and Susanna Cucco continued to build the cultured chic aesthetic of their brand Sa Su Phi by staging a private show for the Milanese who’s who and their inner circle of friends in a stunning design apartment downtown.

Roaming around two floors and a terrace offering a unique view on the city’s skyline, models donned unfussy dresses conceived to marry the practical with the elegant, all infused by the founders’ color sensibility. Fresh silhouettes in pale pink, sky blue, khaki and white were cut in crisp cotton, winking to the daywear summer occasions of the Sa Su Phi customers who juggle between board meetings, art gallery openings and a garden parties.

Silk twill introduced a shiny counterpoint in flowy frocks and separates, with their hues spanning from blush to charming mint green and emerald contributing to their glowing appeal. The eveningwear proposition in double satin and the accessories from Sole Ferragamo’s brand So-Le Studio punctuating the looks amplified the sophistication embedded in the duo’s niche brand, which has gathered increasing steam in the span of less than five years. Fans have included Molly Rogers, the costume designer behind “The Devil Wears Prada 2,” who had Meryl Streep don a few pieces from Sa Su Phi for the movie, including the signature “Lauren” blazer.

Taller Marmo

Taller Marmo’s founders Riccardo Audisio and Yago Goicoechea know how to host a party, too. As previewed to WWD, the duo conjured a jet-setting scene for their Milan presentation, recreating a high-glam gathering in an imaginary Mediterranean villa where guests joined roughly 60 models of different ages in smoking, clinking drinks and dancing to the beat of Disco Bambino’s DJ set. It was fun, it was glamorous and it was quintessentially Taller Marmo.

The collection displayed what the founders do best, too, in its profusion of flowy caftans and party dresses covered in sequins, fringes and ostrich feather trimmings, as well as shimmering fabrics, sky-high slits and halter necklines signaling the ever-present ’70s disco inspiration of the duo.

This season’s Mediterranean theme was translated literally in the silk chiffon fil coupé fabrics handpicked from the archives of a historic silk mill in Como that featured designs from the ’60s and ’70s depicting starfishes and corals. Cloqué jacquards with Lurex accents, wet-effect metallic organza, and three-dimensional sequins resembling sea urchins and mother-of-pearl added to the marine inspiration of the collection, which also introduce knitwear and sea-themed statement jewelry in Taller Marmo’s universe.

Alessandro Enriquez

The Mediterrean also inspired Alessandro Enriquez’s spring 2027 collection, in which the designer celebrated the connection between his homeland Sicily and beloved Greece through nods to mythology, literature and underwater creatures. These were turned into motifs defining the colorful prints that are a hallmark of the designer’s eponymous brand.

Terpsichore dancing from an amphora popping up onto a skirt, a postcard-like illustration of Santorini and Venus’ shell turned into a recurrent symbol joined summery Riviera stripes and bold lettering stating “love” in Greek. Despite the patterns’ exuberance, Enriquez’s offering was still easy to approach thanks to the readable silhouettes, encompassing ’50s-inspired dresses; pencil and full skirts, and Capri and Palazzo pants.

The designer also introduced colorblocking to give the printed range some respite. The move was particularly appealing in the one-shoulder or column evening dresses, which Enriquez embellished with maxi bows and accessorized with chunky jewelry.

Alongside cotton poplin, silk and viscose blends, recycled duchesse and cotton drill, Enriquez introduced in the collection pieces cut from a cotton bouclé tweed created exclusively for him by Italian textile company Monteoliveto, which is turning 60 this year.

It wasn’t the only collaboration of the season. Enriquez also partnered with Cappellini to reinterpret its iconic Bac chair in a distinctive shade of blue inspired by “loulaki,” the traditional pigment powder in ultramarine tones that has been part of the Greek islands’ color palette for centuries.

Forte_Forte

For spring 2027, Giada Forte embarked on an imaginary journey inspired by the Spice Route, combining nods to destinations from Venice to Egypt to Morocco.

She used a soft hand in revisiting the brand’s go-to silhouettes, ranging from slipdresses to pajama sets, and adding fringed sarong skirts and flowing caftans to the mix. The new Paraiso print depicting palm trees and animals ran through the lineup — both in micro and scaled-up versions — while fabrics encompassed satin, habotai silk and silk twill, as well as organza and linen canvases. The lightweight, summery feel of the collection was further enhanced by crochet pieces, with the technique finding its way also in the brand’s My Pepita shoulder bags.

Other styling tweaks reinforced the storytelling, from fringed scarves tied as tops to beaded, jewelry-inspired scarves. The same intricate beadwork adorned cloche hats, while a series of hand-blown glass jewels crafted in the glassworks of Murano pointed to the Italian region where the brand is based and from where Forte started her fashion journey with brother Paolo in 2002.

Malo

Knitwear specialist Malo offered a transitional wardrobe befitting the earlier days of spring in the city through to summer escapes on the Spanish island of Menorca.

In the former category a tweed-like knitted skirt suit had a crafty quality, while diagonal jacquards reproduced the look of denim for sweaters and pants. Cotton-based crocheted sweaters and cardigans mingled with open-weave malfilé knits in tactile blends of cotton and cashmere.

“Knitwear is king and queen in our collection,” said CEO Michelle Kessler-Sanders, highlighting the alluring color palette of neutrals spiced up by bursts of mélange orange and pink, or marine blue, their depth enhanced by knitting techniques including mouliné, intarsia and vanisé.

Herno

Fashion got a little more experimental — and sensual — at Herno for spring, with a range of shimmering and liquid-looking textures that conjured a sophisticated and glamorous feel.

The brand has outgrown outerwear and now offers a total look, which accounts for 40 percent of sales, but zeroed in on the former category with some of the best pieces in this lineup, including see-through colorful rain parkas, tossed over tonal balloon skirts in nylon taffeta and body-con LBDs.

A shimmering trenchcoat in champagne-hued silk with an A-line silhouette could easily double up as a dress for early spring soirées, while a more utilitarian iteration of the signature outwear piece was reconfigured into a strapless frock. Elsewhere, duster coats replaced blazer for pantsuits cut in generous proportions, while crinkled raincoats straddled utility and urban chic over strapless tops and roomy pants.

Redemption

Redemption’s glamorous punks eventually let their more romantic spirit spill over onto their attire for spring, as cofounder and creative director Gabriele “Bebe” Moratti allowed himself to toy with a softer palette.

There was no shortage of high-octane sensuality, albeit pared down using nudes, champagne and pastels, including baby pink. Shiny bustier dresses mingled with slipdresses decked in sequins mimicking python skin and tank frocks that had the ease of a beach robe, while high-slit skirts cut on the bias were paired with mannish white shirts.

Referencing ’70s music icons such as Janis Joplin, Moratti sought to celebrate women with strong self-confidence “not only in the way they look, but above all, in the way they think,” he said.

Moorer

A sense of understated ease continues to permeate Moorer’s offering. Rooted in casual elegance, the spring collection introduced a refreshing palette of aquamarine blue, sage green and pink flanking the brand’s distinctive ivories, ecrus and beiges.

In its core outerwear category, there were plenty of transseasonal options, from the kimono-inspired Akate-WK3 quilted jacket in peach-touch denim to the shrunken biker jackets in strong washed leather with a crinkled and waxed-like effect.

A-line hooded trenchcoats and double-face drop-shouldered blazers were featherlight and flattering, paired with tonal fluid skirts and a simple knit underpinning, as the brand continues to expand its total look offering.

Blauer

Blauer hit Milan Fashion Week to introduce a new line sitting at the intersection of athleisure and sportswear with a glamour undercurrent.

Aptly named B. Glam it included organza bomber jackets and parkas in sunset-hued gradients to be matched with jersey leggings, tank tops one would wear for workout but decked in rhinestones, as well as cool balloon miniskirts in nylon taffeta.

“The whole concept was offering comfortable quotidian pieces that can be easily layered for a glamorous night out,” said marketing and communication director Federica Fusco, part of family that owns the business.

Mantù

For the perfect everyday summer dress, dial Mantù. The in-house brand of Italian manufacturing company Castor, which works with a plethora of luxury fashion houses, delivered another solid collection filled with uncomplicated silhouettes. And a side of color therapy.

Upon stepping at the brand’s showroom here, one could be met with an explosion of tangerine hues informing unfussy tops, tunics and cotton dresses cut in essential shapes and infused with vitaminic energy. Shades of pink introduced a feminine touch in shirtdresses, while the natural shades of a paper-like fabric deployed for crisp tailoring and skirts trimmed with floral appliqués acted as the collection’s chromatic common denominator.

Textures contributed in telegraphing the nonchalant approach to dressing that defines the brand. These ranged from the crinkled, embossed surfaces of cotton-linen blends and the crisp touch of taffeta and seersucker separates to the juxtaposition of light linen-ramie blend with broderie anglaise pieces.

Federica Tosi

Federica Tosi’s concise collection also leaned on approachable pieces conveying confidence and sense of ease. Yet the brand refreshed its signature relaxed tailoring and fashion hinged on solid colors and monochrome looks with interplays of transparencies and shine, as it integrated satin separates and lace dresses in the lineup. Cue the white laced frocks that balanced minimalist shape and sensuality and that could come in handy not only for summer occasions but as a bridal option, too.

This season will also mark the brand’s foray in the American market via a dedicated distribution strategy, as it will simultaneously focus on enhancing its resort offering — a category comprising beachwear through, which the brand aims to step into the stores and boutiques of luxury hotels located in international resort destinations.

Veronica De Piante

The brand is celebrating its fifth anniversary this year, and founder and designer Veronica De Piante — born in Milan to an Argentinian mother and Italian father, and a globetrotter by life and work — said she has finally fine tuned her fashion to fully reflect her vision.

There was a lot of black in this summer collection, one of De Piante’s favorite color, and particularly appropriate as she seeks to offer a timeless wardrobe with a transseasonal ethos. The interplay of leather and lace, for cropped biker jackets or perfecto trenchcoats and elongated blazers and fitted dresses, respectively, echoed the designer’s penchant for combining feminine and masculine codes.

The body-con LBDs and python-printed trenchcoat added a dash of sensual glamour to the lineup, which resonates particularly with her American clientele. The brand boasts a flagship on New York City’s Madison Avenue and is sold at a handful of wholesalers in the U.S., as well as on Net-a-porter.

Yali

Set in an auction house featuring an installation by Joy Herro comprising of cool Italian design furniture from the 1930s to the ’90s, the Yali presentation displayed new takes on founder Pia Zanardi’s signatures, including the cropped vests and genderless velvet blazer jackets reinterpreted in many iterations over the years.

She expanded the brand’s material and construction vocabulary through cotton velvet, bleached damask, slubbed cupro-linen, washed denim and printed fabrics used in reverse to create a faded effect. A striped silk pajama stood out as its pattern was recreated via the negatives of analogue photographs taken by the founder, offering an eccentric interpretation of one of Yali’s most popular silhouettes.

The dress category was also developed deeper, delivering options for day and night, while the sportier proposition was reworked with precise pattern cutting, like that seen in a fleece sweater with a spiral cut running from wrist to chest and micro-beaded trims at the cuffs and neckline resembling integrated jewelry. The collection was rounded out by footwear provided by fellow niche label Michel Piza, designed by Mexican talent Paola Michel Piza.

Gio Giovanni Gerosa

While knitwear and colorful silk dresses remain at the center of Giovanni Gerosa’s universe, his brand’s latest collection nudged the designer’s penchant for craftsmanship into new territories.

Enter a double-face puffer bomber combining knitwear and nylon and adding to existing versions now reinterpreted with new cardigan-inspired closures; a hand-painted fringed leather jacket recalling one of Gerosa’s earliest experiments with the material, and the brand’s debut into denim, featuring the designer’s distinctive heart symbol embroidered on the back pockets of denim pants.

Gerosa also introduced leather and suede mules hand-painted and finished with embroideries nodding to recurring motifs such as the bandana and the island symbol, as well as leather flip-flops punctuated by small stones.

The footwear range flanked a special-edition bag capsule developed with Zanellato, reinterpreting the Italian company’s signature designs such as the Postina, Dotta and A’ Spasso styles in leather, canvas and printed nylon with Gerosa’s hand-applied painting and embroidering.

Sirivannavari

A fascination with India’s culture and landscape inspired Her Royal Highness Princess Sirivannavari Nariratana Rajakanya’s latest collection. The Sirivannavari brand’s founder drew on memories of Jaipur’s architecture and colors and weaved a ’70s-inspired rock ‘n’ roll thread into this season’s narrative.

The result was an interplay between sharp and restrained tailoring with metallic surfaces and flashy ornaments, like the profusion of mirrored embellishments covering opulent flared pants and dresses. Draped tops, wrapped frocks and skirts also helped to inject a dynamic spin into the lineup.