Day one
Morning
Kick things off with breakfast at Wah Lok, a nostalgic cha chaan teng (a uniquely Hong Kong, East-meets-West diner) that’s been going since the 1940s; grab a booth seat, scrambled egg sandwich and silky-smooth milk tea. Suitably fuelled up, wander down to Hollywood Road for a moment of tranquillity among the gigantic incense coils at Man Mo Temple – one of the city’s oldest Taoist temples.
Keep strolling to Cat Street antique market; the various trinkets, ceramics, jade ornaments and vintage-style posters might stretch the definition of “antique”, but it’s ideal for browsing or picking up a souvenir. Caffeine fiends can pause to refuel at Halfway Coffee; their brews being served in vintage Chinese crockery somehow makes the coffee taste even better.
Afternoon
Mosey down to Tai Kwun, an arts and culture hub comprising 16 beautifully restored heritage buildings including the former Central Police Station and Victoria Prison, with exhibitions and guided tours that delve deeper into its history.
All that exploring works up quite the appetite, so head down the Mid-Level Escalators – the world’s longest outdoor covered escalator – to Mak An Kee, a gloriously old-school wonton joint for your fill of bite-sized prawn dumplings and springy noodles.
From there, it’s just a short walk to Central Market, a striking Bauhaus-style building that previously housed one of Hong Kong’s oldest wet markets. Nowadays, you’ll find retro-style souvenir shops, quirky local brands and casual eateries – including freshly-made gai daan zai (egg puff waffles) at Mammy Pancake.
