Miu Miu has never been shy about incorporating athletic wear on the runway. And for spring/summer 2027, Miuccia Prada set it against tailoring and evening wear, bringing a new precision and eclecticism to the mix.
Presented today in Paris before a star-studded front row, the collection did what Miu Miu does best: give familiar clothes a second, more dressed-up life. Embellished bra tops went over stretchy performance shirts; track pants met blazers and blouses; cocktail dresses were paired with gorpcore-style sneakers.
The collection began with a question about the everyday wardrobe. “The reality of clothing today is this mix—sportswear, casual, normal,” Mrs. Prada said in her show notes. “But how to make it more interesting, more rich? I wanted to find ways to introduce beauty into these real clothes. The concept of mixing elements of sports with sophistication is something that has always influenced my work. But I have never been so precise, or taken it so far.”
Micro hot pants recalled board shorts, while abbreviated jerseys and tailored pieces brought athletic references into the collection. Geek-chic knits and checked separates worn low on the waist recalled the brand’s bookish side.
Some of the strongest looks played with the tension between sports and formal wear. A patterned wrap top laced tight at the waist, creating an almost hourglass silhouette over a track jacket. Dress pants featured an elasticized waistband and spaghetti-strap dresses came layered with rugby shirts and taut bralettes.
Statement skirts appeared throughout, including the one Gigi Hadid wore with a backward sports bra to close the show. They recalled Prada’s recent celebration of the skirt in its spring/summer 2027 collection, while still feeling distinctly Miu Miu with their athletic-meets-elegant blend.
Texture played a part, too. Wax-laminated suede was left cracked and creased. Bejeweled details on satin and gauze evening wear played against metal hardware and crossed lacing. The denim pieces, reworked in collaboration with Wrangler, evoked a lived-in feel.
As is tradition, the clothes had company in the spotlight. Jamie Bell, Emma Corrin, Olivia Colman, Igby Rigney, and Louisa Jacobson all walked in the show.
This season, many of the strongest collections have asked what women want from their everyday wardrobes, whether that means a more sensual take on dressing, a sharper spin on classic staples, or sportswear with a new polish. Miu Miu, as ever, found the fun in mixing the two.
Matthew Velasco is the Fashion News Editor at ELLE. Based in New York City, he previously worked as a News Writer at W magazine and an Assistant Editor at V magazine. Outside of fashion, he enjoys interior design, tennis (both watching and playing), and a jam-packed antique store.
