Few cities can satisfy an appetite with the range and immediacy of Hong Kong. Within a city block, you can go from old-school cha chaan tengs(diners) to experimental fine dining, no-frills noodle shops and bars reinventing the cocktail scene. For food journalist and content creator Gloria Chung, it’s this diversity and the city’s “dynamic pace and relentless energy” that keeps her captivated.
“Hong Kong never sleeps,” says Chung. And nowhere is that more evident than in the densely packed streets of the adjacent SoHo and Central districts. Her go-to for contemporary Cantonese is Ho Lee Fook on Elgin Street, where walls plastered with playful art and the 80s-era Cantopop soundtrack are underpinned by serious technique. Chef ArChan Chan’s curiosity – and her enthusiasm for sharing her culture – shapes a menu that bounces confidently between tradition and innovation.
Just around the corner, Louise offers refined French cuisine on a serene leafy terrace that feels far removed from the fast-paced streets surrounding it. For some Spanish flair, 22 Ships serves up what Chung describes as “the best paella in Hong Kong” alongside a strong sherry selection. On nearby Staunton Street, Jus (from the team behind the legendary Big JJ Seafood Hotpot in Central) serves just three noodle dishes – including beef dan dan noodles, rich with spicy Sichuan peppercorns and a generous chilli hit – to a handful of patrons in its tiny dining room. Joining the queue of in-the-know locals is well worth the effort.
When only a steak will satisfy, Chung crosses Victoria Harbour to Tsim Sha Tsui to pull up a leather stool at American-style grill and smokehouse Henry inside the Rosewood Hong Kong. “I usually pre-order or ask chef Jorge Vera Gutiérrez if the 600-gram Native Black Iberian bone-in striploin is available.” This isn’t your everyday steak – it’s a heritage breed sourced from Spain prized for its deeper, more complex beef flavour.
If there’s one chef Chung credits with constantly pushing boundaries, it’s restaurateur Vicky Cheng. His trio of Central restaurants, Wing, Vea and Medora, each explore Chinese cuisine through a different lens. Wing, in particular, has become a reference point for contemporary fine-dining in Hong Kong with its constantly evolving menu guided by Cheng’s personal food memories. At Liz & Tori, an ice-cream shop named after Cheng’s daughters, Elizabeth and Victoria, the acclaimed chef’s sweeter side is on show. Seasonal flavours rotate, but Chung singles one out: “I highly recommend the Salted Duck Egg Milk Jam ice-cream made with chopped salted duck egg and puffed black quinoa.”
With several outposts around the city, Drool Froyo is another pick for desserts. “It offers fantastic frozen yoghurt with unique flavour combinations,” says Chung. Consider the “cheesecake” made with creamy Hokkaido milk and Greek yoghurt or warm up on a winter’s day with an Earl Grey hot chocolate.
Where to get a drink in Central
Central’s after-work scene buzzes with small bars and sophisticated bartending. Chung’s pick for cocktails is The Diplomat or Sugar King, both run by bartender John Nugent and renowned for doing the classics extremely well. “My favourites at The Diplomat are the Gibson and an Irish coffee alongside an amazing burger made from Wagyumafia trimmings,” Chung says. “The Cuban-inspired Sugar King offers an exceptional Daiquiri with flavours that change daily. I once had one infused with bitter melon and it was delicious.”
For whisky-lovers, Chung recommends Club Qing, situated on the 10th floor of the Cosmos Building, as the ideal spot for a dram, alongside Bar Cyclone in Wellington Street, owned by former Olympic cyclist for Hong Kong Jack Wu. “Jack has excellent taste in wine and even has his own label,” Chung says.
Bar Leone in SoHo has been a hotspot since it opened in 2023 and the Italian-themed cocktail bar and topped the World’s 50 Best Bars list in 2025. To avoid the queue, Chung suggests arriving after 11pm for a drink, or between 8.30pm and 9pm if you’re planning to have a bite to eat. Order the mortadella sandwich, smoked olives and the signature Caffè Paradiso cocktail and then settle in and revel in the atmosphere.
Where the locals go for traditional cuisine
When Chung develops a craving for something traditional, she heads east to Wan Chai, a neighbourhood dense with established restaurants and small, specialised kitchens. Yong Fu in Lockhart Road is her choice for Ningbo cuisine, particularly the tangyuan – glutinous rice dumplings served as dessert – and the marinated raw crab. Chukfo Taipan in Triangle Street is known for its barbecue pork, while Thompson Road’s LAI’s Kitchen draws crowds for its claypot rice, cooked to order with a crispy layer at the base. For dim sum and exceptional fried chicken, One Harbour Road at the Grand Hyatt Hong Kong is a reliable favourite, and Sang Kee in Hennessy Road is “great for traditional Cantonese dishes such as sweet and sour pork.”
Wan Chai is also the place for snacks between meals. Chung recommends the pan-fried rice rolls and glutinous rice at Keung Kee in Lockhart Road, or a chicken pie and egg tart from Kam Fung Cafe – best eaten fresh and still warm.
The best teahouse and coffee spots in Hong Kong
Hong Kong’s coffee scene is as diverse as its dining, spanning Italian, Australian and Japanese styles. EN Coffee in Central changes its house blend seasonally, while Shui Kee Coffee, tucked inside Sheung Wan Market and Cooked Food Centre, pioneered bottled iced milk tea long before it rose to popularity.
For a traditional cha chaan teng experience, Chung recommends Wah Lok Cafe in Sheung Wan. Open since 1940, it remains a local fixture, particularly for its milk tea and pork liver noodles.
