Chinese designer brand Tuyue unveiled its Spring/Summer 2027 collection Suchness at Shanghai Fashion Week on Friday.
Drawing aesthetic inspiration from the Water-Moon Guanyin statues of the Liao and Jin dynasties (916-1234), the collection integrates custom fragrance into the runway narrative for the first time, interpreting Eastern philosophy through a multisensory resonance of clothing, light and scent. Created in collaboration with an incense brand, the all-natural osmanthus blend is sealed in delicate sachets that diffuse gently as the models move.
“By the time you become aware of the scent, you are already part of it,” said Yang Yingying, Tuyue’s founder and creative director. She noted that scent and apparel have always been inseparable in traditional Chinese aesthetics, and using fragrance as the entry point lets audiences grasp the core theme “you are within it” through a direct sensory experience.
Rather than directly replicate Guanyin imagery, the design team deconstructed its flowing robes, beaded ornaments and poised bearing, reinterpreting the elements across more than 60 looks in the show. To Yang, the collection’s solemn aura is not artificially constructed but a natural sense of order accumulated through three months of meticulous craftsmanship.
The previous Zenith collection took a restrained, inward-looking approach with a deliberately quiet runway. This season’s Suchness marks a clear creative shift, “opening the window outward”, acknowledging the constant evolution of people shaped by every encounter and connection.
Founded in 2008, Tuyue has grown in lockstep with its founder’s vision, moving from artistic narrative to philosophical expression.Deeply rooted in Chinese aesthetics, the brand keeps moon phases as its signature visual totem, updating fabrics and silhouettes each year while preserving its culturally resonant symbol.
The brand is now expanding fragrance into an independent creative medium, launching an incense line with traditional craft partners to build culturally grounded Chinese products. The runway osmanthus blend is its first custom release, with moon-themed sachet accessories in development.
