And just like that, another Fashion Month is done and dusted.
Four cities, countless runway shows and a whole lot of conversation later, Spring/Summer 2027 has officially come to a close. From New York and London to Milan and Paris, the past few weeks have delivered everything we’ve come to expect from fashion’s busiest month, alongside a few surprises that nobody quite saw coming.
In Milan, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons continued to challenge our understanding of everyday dressing at Prada, while Demna’s latest chapter at Gucci gave the industry plenty to talk about. Paris, meanwhile, delivered its own share of talking points. Anthony Vaccarello covered Saint Laurent in gold amid rumours surrounding his future at the house, Jonathan Anderson continued to reshape Dior, and Matthieu Blazy brought his evolving vision of Chanel to the runway. Elsewhere, Drew Henry made his debut at Courrèges, Duran Lantink continued to push boundaries at Jean Paul Gaultier, and Miu Miu closed out its season with a collision of sportswear and sophistication.
But Fashion Month has always been about more than just clothes and runways. It’s the atmosphere outside the shows, the conversations happening between collections, the unexpected moments that never make it onto the runway and, of course, the endless debate over who got it right and who missed the mark,
Throughout it all, the CULTED team has been on the ground, moving between shows, presentations and events, getting a closer look at the collections and the people shaping the industry. From front-row moments to behind-the-scenes conversations, we’ve spent the past month taking it all in.
Now that the dust has settled, we’re getting everyone around the table to reflect on SS27. What were the collections that stayed with us? Which designers delivered, who surprised us, and what does this season tell us about where fashion is heading next?
From personal highlights and unexpected favourites to the moments we’d rather forget, here’s what the CULTED team made of Fashion Month SS27.
Favourite moments?
Vivian Osondu, Head of Social Media: I think I have three. The first was launching our zine during New York Fashion Week and meeting people from our community in real life. Hearing about the content and pieces we have made that have genuinely moved people was really special.
I’d also say watching what could be Anthony Vaccarello’s final show for Saint Laurent. I absolutely love what he has done with the house, and seeing that iconic gold YSL look followed by ten black looks felt like a mourning and a finale. It was such a beautiful moment to witness, and if it was his final show, I feel lucky to have been there for a piece of fashion history.
And, of course, watching Rachel Ojuromi make her well deserved runway debut at Chanel. I have only cried at three shows in my life, and watching Rachel come down that runway genuinely made my Fashion Month.
Robyn Cullen, Senior Editorial Manager, XO: Matières Fécales’ shows always hit me in a pretty deep place, in part because the designs are so beautiful, but mostly because the collection’s messages consistently feel raw and genuine. Watching Hannah and Steven transform Paris’s main site of protest, Place de la République, into a runway, and use their SS27 collection to speak the most intimate truths about their perspectives on their city, and what’s happening in the world right now, was really an honour.
I actually found the show pretty emotional, I think because it did what so many fashion brands and designers are afraid to do. People tend to be critical of anyone who’s happy to work in the fashion industry having a political stance, because of its perceived hypocrisy, but I’d argue we need more voices speaking out from within the fashion world, and that’s exactly what Matières Fécales is doing. Leaving Paris on the 6th and walking through the same square, Place de la République, this time surrounded by crowds of French students and riot police, made Matières Fécales’ message feel all the more poignant. This, for me, is what fashion is about. Art, not for art’s sake, but with a voice that says what needs to be said.
Jack Lynch, Senior Editor: For me, Lacoste was the standout show of Fashion Month SS27. I think what Pelagia Kolotouros is doing with the brand right now is exciting, especially how she’s managing to take something so rooted in tennis heritage and make it feel relevant to a completely new generation. Staging the show on the clay courts of Roland-Garros was brilliant, but it was the clothes that really sold it to me. The oversized polos, relaxed tailoring, technical sportswear and clay-stained pieces are all completely wearable. It was a collection where I could see myself wearing almost everything, and I think that’s pretty rare.
I also, of course, have to give Burberry a mention, Seeing Central Cee (as a massive UK rap head) make his runway debut was a real highlight, especially with how he naturally brought his West London energy to the show. The low-slung jeans, oversized layers and relaxed styling felt so authentic to him. I think Daniel Lee deserves credit for allowing that personality to come through. Burberry is such an established British institution, but moments like that show how the brand can connect with a younger generation and reflect what British style actually looks like today.
Aura Arif, Video & Social Media Manager: Tom Ford Tom Ford Tom Ford. Tom Ford as a designer holds a special place in my heart, but Haider Ackermann’s interpretation of Tom Ford’s brand identity really shone through for me this season. It didn’t need to be all black, all leather, all skin for it to be sexy. The models played characters that exuded sensuality (I’m also a sucker for age diversity in casting) and you could tell every model felt their best. The v-neck jumpers with matching underwear and heels felt so simple yet so bold, and the menswear looks paired so well in conversation. The colour palette was unexpected but only Haider could think of executing it the way he did.
Oh and a personal favourite! I loved seeing Olivia Colman walk for Miu Miu. She is such a strong figure and seeing her on the runway, somewhere you may not expect to see her, felt so refreshing and joyful.
What was one thing that didn’t meet your expectations?
Robyn: I’ve attended a good few seasons in-person now, and something that gets harder to ignore each time is the fact that this job is not glamorous. Every time I travel for Fashion Month, I find it harder to romanticise the long hours, constant rushing between shows, manic posting, and lack of time for self-care or mental rest, etc. etc. What I will say is, I’m getting better at finding solutions to that: having drinks with a few friends in between the chaos might’ve actually saved my mental health. Obviously, getting to travel for Fashion Month and attending shows is a blessing, and this is the best job in the world. You just need to make sure you’re not sacrificing your wellbeing to do it.
Jack: If there was one thing that didn’t quite live up to expectations this Fashion Month, it was probably the lack of surprising moments. Don’t get me wrong, there were some incredible collections, and the level of creativity across all four cities was undeniable. But I did find myself watching certain shows and feeling like I had seen something similar before. With so many collections being presented in such a short space of time, I think there’s a danger of everything starting to blur together. For me, the most exciting thing about fashion is seeing designers take risks, challenge expectations and put something out there that gets people talking. I just wish there had been a few more of those moments this season. That said, I think it’s also a reflection of how high the standard has become, and perhaps how difficult it is to actually surprise an audience that’s constantly consuming fashion.
Aura: Hypocrisy and negativity is taking over fashion in my opinion. Industry folks are so quick to point fingers and criticise each other, yet take opportunities and praise certain things that fully contradict their morals. It’s an incredibly tough climate to be in right now, sure fashion is cutthroat, but let’s not forget how fortunate we are. People are fighting for basic human rights and justice, we don’t need to be fighting over whose Instagram post was better.
Vivian: I felt like a few brands were not activating or showing up in the way they could have. A lot of the season felt a little uninspired, and I would love to see more brands take risks and do something genuinely fresh.
I also felt like there was a return to the 90s with fashion elitist comments and a strange disconnect between people in the industry this season. Everyone is stressed, everyone is rushing around and show spaces can be hot and intense, but we are all peers and we are all lucky to be in these rooms. Sometimes the energy felt unnecessarily difficult when we have all worked hard to be here. I’d love to see a little more generosity and kindness from everyone next season.
And finally, I had a very fun interview with Law Roach, where he said, “Gowns. We need gowns. Girls are going to places and they need gowns.” I completely agreed with him. Where were all the gowns? And where were all the heels?
