I took a hop-on, hop-off bus around Europe’s secret winelands

I took a hop-on, hop-off bus around Europe's secret winelands

I’m sitting at the back of a partially open-top, restored 1960s bus. Burgundy faux-leather seats are held in place by shiny chrome frames; the luggage rack is made from braided cord. It feels like my old school bus. I close my eyes briefly, feeling the sun on my face and the wind blowing through my hair. Either side of me, rows of vines, freshly harvested, stretch off into the distance, the landscape marked occasionally by the volcanic Witness Mountains.

The hop-on, hop-off vineyard tour of Hungary’s Lake Balaton region, aboard the 46° Balaton Wine Bus, is the inspired idea of entrepreneur Virág Szabo. With a personality to match the region’s best sparkling wines, she guides the tour, explaining the route and each winery in a variety of languages.

The bus runs around a group of vineyards, stopping at each point every two hours, allowing customers to get off for their chosen tastings before returning to the lively town of Balatonfüred.

Shorts

Szabo only started the business in May, but it’s clear her mind is fizzing with ideas. Lake Balaton has a predominance of independent restaurants, hotels and wineries and her mission is to help link them up and better promote the region.

“This is not my job, this is my love,” she explains. It’s an ambition shaped by necessity, for while Budapest draws millions of international visitors annually, Balaton has remained largely unknown beyond its Central European neighbours.

Private motorised boats are banned on Balaton, so the almost surreally quiet lake belongs to sailors, kayakers and paddleboarders, as well as swimmers. As the sun drops over the Witness Mountains, the golden syrup light warms the sails of boats gliding across. An evening on the water here, glass of local in hand, is the perfect way to slip into holiday mode.

Holidaymakers on the lake's shores (Photo: Matthew Dennis)
Holidaymakers on the lake’s shores, where private motor boats are banned (Photo: Matthew Dennis)

Within Hungary, Balaton is renowned for its wine production and, particularly in recent years, it has been keen to raise its profile. Grape varieties such as olaszrizling and kéknyelu sit comfortably alongside the more well-known szürkebarát (the Hungarian name for pinot grigio) and are well-known in neighbouring countries.

The vineyards are developing. At Tagyon Birtok winery, Attila Kartaly discusses his ideas for the future as the team prepare for a wedding to be held the next day beneath the grape- and vine-hung white trellis where we’re sitting. In between, Kartaly enthusiastically ducks out to get another wine to try, and I gaze across the rows of vines, punctuated by terracotta-roofed cottages, towards the silvery lake shore.

The 46° Balaton (so called because the start point is on the 46th parallel north) is not the only way of getting between Balaton’s vineyards. As I travel around the lake, a well-maintained cycle path runs almost its entire 200km circumference. Balaton Bike 365 has five service hubs, stocked with regular and electric bikes, and over 1,000km (621 miles) of mapped routes are available.

Vineyards along the shores of Lake Balaton (Photo: Meindert van der Haven/Getty Images)
Vineyards along the shores of Lake Balaton (Photo: Meindert van der Haven/Getty)

Along one of these routes, the spa town of Hévíz is home to a geothermal lake. As I float in the 32°C water (minimum 22°C in winter), I feel my muscles soften.

Nearby, in the lake’s north-western-most corner, is the old town of Keszthely and the grand Festetics Palace with its baroque architecture and its two-tiered Helikon Library, which has 80,000 rare books and a secret door.

About two-thirds of the way to the 78km-long lake’s eastern end lies the Tihany peninsula, where the scent hits you before the abbey does. The peninsula produces lavender, and the owner of the Lavender Manufactory is about to add another thread to Balaton’s growing transport tapestry: a lavender road train linking the town’s cobbled lanes, refinery, restaurants and lake views.

Back on the 46° Wine Bus, as Balatonfüred comes into view and Szabo marshals her passengers with characteristic effervescence, I find myself wondering why it’s taken so long for the rest of the world to find this place. The Hungarians, Germans, Poles and Czechs, of course, already knew. Perhaps that’s why they never felt the need to tell us.

How to get there

The writer flew with Wizz Air, which operates from Gatwick to Budapest. Trains run regularly to both the north and south shores of Lake Balaton from Budapest train stations from about £8, taking around two hours.

The writer was a guest of Holiday Extras, which offers overnight stays at Hilton London Gatwick airport with six days’ Maple Parking meet and greet from £250.

Where to stay

One of the safari-style tents (Photo: Matt Dennis)
One of the safari-style tents (Photo: Matt Dennis)

Pálos Resort in Zalacsány has a range of rooms and safari-style tent lodges from £66.

Casa Christa is an agriturismo near Pécsely and Vászoly offering stays in old wine-press houses from £100.

More information

Balaton Wine Bus costs from €42 (£36) excluding wine tasting. Tours run until mid-October then start again in March 2027.

Visit Lake Balaton

Source link

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *