Published
October 12, 2026
As the fashion world wraps up an intense month of shows dedicated to the Spring/Summer 2027 collections, the catwalk marathon is giving way to operational reviews and strategic decision-making. Against the backdrop of a strained global economy, where every assortment choice matters, FashionNetwork.com has chosen to give a voice to the decision-makers who turn runway creativity into commercial reality. In these interviews, buying directors from leading department stores analyse the major trends, shifts in brand desirability, and the calculated risks being taken for the coming season. Isabelle Fine, head of buying at Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche, shares her expert perspective on the recent shows in Milan and Paris and welcomes the return of an airy, ethereal femininity. She decodes the season’s standout silhouettes and cornerstone pieces.
FashionNetwork.com: First of all, given the economic climate, how would you describe the mood in the industry during the September shows in Milan and Paris?
Isabelle Fine: Paris remains the strongest Fashion Week in creative terms, with everyone genuinely trying to put forward their own creative vision, and doing so in a complex and tense international context. In Milan, there was a distinctly solid commercial discourse, with new creative directors asserting their identities, a renewed balance between desirability and commerciality, and the end of one-size-fits-all minimalism. There is real focus on the garment itself and how it is worn.
FNW: Looking beyond the market context, what conclusions do you draw from the creative direction seen on the catwalks for the Spring/Summer 2027 season?
IF: We are witnessing the return of a new, free, and weightless femininity, centred on texture and construction, and therefore an evolution of the silhouette. Sensuality is expressed through layering, and accessories are regaining strength. The collections are gaining in desirability and personality. Gesture and fabric are taking precedence over a minimalism that had become very sanitised in recent seasons.
FNW: Which three shows had the greatest impact this season, and for what stylistic or emotional reasons?
IF: Dries Van Noten, for its glamorous, cinematic inspiration. What stands out is the styling prowess in pairing fluid dresses with graphic T-shirts, precious jewellery and casual pieces. The strength and completeness of the collection lie in its command of colour and print, which are house signatures. This is where Julian Klausner is particularly convincing. Celine, in a different register, offers an extremely desirable Parisian collection – free-spirited and elegant without tipping into frozen perfection. Michael Rider proposes a wardrobe that every woman can make her own. Accessories were also a major highlight of the collection.
Dior delivered a magnificent show, defined by fluid materials and a feeling of lightness, even in the most structured pieces. There was an interesting deconstruction of certain house codes, a highly successful masculine–feminine contrast, and always this notion of a liberated femininity. Finally, Chanel was sublime, with an ultra-desirable, elegant and airy silhouette, and a show imbued with lightness.
FNW: In your view, what are the three standout pieces of the season in ready-to-wear and accessories? And at which brands did you see the most compelling expressions of these?
IF: The knee-length skirt, brought back into the spotlight by Prada, but also by many other brands such as Jil Sander, Dior, and Dries Van Noten. The lingerie-inspired wardrobe, with sheer, lightweight bralettes and tops, seen at Fendi, Prada, Tom Ford, and Dior. Lace and embroidery to add warmth to the minimalist aesthetic, seen at The Row and Chloé, paired with a statement belt (defining the waist), as at Celine and Bottega, and with large, supple bags.
FNW: Following the major reshuffle of previous seasons, what firm directions are emerging? And where do the question marks still lie in the work of the recently appointed creative directors?
IF: In Milan, the new creative directors are now clearly asserting their identities after two or three seasons. In Paris, we are more in a phase of appropriating the house codes, which should evolve into a deeper assertion in the coming seasons. In all cases, they are focused on reshaping existing codes to bring novelty and desirability, rather than pursuing radical change.
FNW: In terms of concepts and staging, which initiatives have particularly impressed you?
IF: I’m thinking of Dries Van Noten, where the show becomes a film. The final walk is so moving, and the spectacle extends the designer’s vision.
Rick Owens, in a completely different register, doesn’t tell a story so much as build a world. The clothes and the set share the same sense of monumentality. The Rick Owens show remains one of my perennial favourites.
FNW: What key directions are emerging for next spring–summer?
IF: In terms of materials and craftsmanship, this season has shone a spotlight on crochet, lace, fringing, embroidery, beading, and chiffon. As for lines and details, there is a great deal of transparency and lightness, but also layering, ruffles, gathers, loops, and cinched waists. We are also seeing a confident return of colour, prints, and floral motifs.
FNW: In terms of your positioning, which directions particularly appealed to you? Which ideas might find expression in your merchandising or window displays?
IF: I was particularly drawn to the sophisticated yet wearable craft trend, as well as this notion of lightness and layering, which you will naturally see reflected in our silhouettes and collections next summer.
FNW: Given the uncertainties in the market, how much room are you allowing for risk-taking this season in your buying decisions – whether that means supporting the emergence of a young designer or backing the creative shift of a debut collection?
IF: A challenging market should not lead to eliminating risk. Being a tastemaker is an integral part of our DNA. Our mission has always been to reveal new things, to surprise our customers, and to dare to take fashion and artistic positions that break with the rest of the market. It is precisely this boldness that makes us unique.
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