Is layering an art? Probably not in the traditional sense. We are not talking the Bayeux tapestry here. No one is going to queue round the block to admire the subtle interplay between your Uniqlo Heattech and your cashmere crewneck. Still, I think it’s nice to romanticise this stuff. The deeply unpoetic truth is that it is going to get cold and wearing one item of clothing at a time simply isn’t going to cut it. So let’s pretend that the sliver of white T-shirt beneath a jumper, the shirt collar poking out above a cardigan, or the ballet wrap over a snug top are not acts of basic thermal self-preservation, but composition. A creative statement about proportion, texture, colour and self-expression. If you have to wear half your wardrobe at once, you may as well make a masterpiece out of it.
The avant-garde layering term to drop in order to sound like a connoisseur this season is onion dressing. Not the most romantic name, but a clear visual for the most refined form of layering, which is fine layers rather than hefty ones. And instead of the top layer covering all beneath it, each piece should be visible. As if we were slicing through the onion and looking at a cross-section if you will excuse me labouring the allium thing. This is layering with finesse rather than brute force. Hems and collars and cuffs give an outfit depth and texture without adding too much bulk. You want to look intriguing and multi-dimensional, not like Joey in Friends wearing all of Chandler’s clothes.
Onion dressing is your sartorial safety blanket in an increasingly uncertain climate. Autumn was unpredictable enough to start with, and our new weather reality is constant chaos. The merry-go-round keeps spinning even when you are indoors: will the train carriage be arctic and draughty or stuffy and overheated today? Who knows, comrades. You are invited for Sunday lunch, but will your pals have their heating on full blast or not at all? One can neither ask in advance, nor comment. Best to be stylishly prepared for all eventualities.
The greatest joy of onion dressing is that you can put off the moment when you start wearing your Big Coat. As a psychological upside, this is not to be sniffed at. In January and February you will be stuck in that thing, so you don’t want to be sick of the sight of it by then. Imaginative combinations of less bulky pieces can keep you warm, offer temperature flexibility, make getting dressed less dull, and get some extra use out of jackets that would otherwise be sidelined for six months.
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Start with the science. The allure of layering is looking relaxed, effortless and ready for anything. Red-faced, sweaty and unable to move your arms because your sweater is too bulky for the sleeves of your jacket is not elegant. Follow the principles of hardy folk dressing for the outdoors and start with a fine base layer, something breathable to keep you warm without cooking you. A polo neck is extra cosy, but a crewneck looks chic. Check that the neckline is clean and tidy, because this part will be on show and that needs to look deliberate. Then a middle layer: this could be a plaid or plain cotton button down shirt, or an interesting cardi, or a sweater. Outdoors, all you need now is a “shield” layer: an easy on-and-off piece, which could be a blazer, a chore jacket or a puffer vest. Oh, one last practical point: consider either the middle or top layer being sleeveless to avoid feeling like you’ve been stuffed like a Christmas turkey.
You need some flair, too. This is style, not pass-the-parcel. If all the layers are utilitarian the effect can veer a bit “Duke of Edinburgh award”. A pop of colour works. Contrasting textures will add sophistication. A collar or layered necklines are good for elevating the vibe. Layering is not going to get you a retrospective at the Tate, but it does take an eye for colour, composition and texture. Keeping warm is much more interesting when you use your imagination.
Model: Imogen May at Milk. Styling: Melanie Wilkinson. Hair and makeup: Sophie Higginson using Ouai and Summer Fridays. Crewneck, £36, Marks and Spencer. Cashmere cardi, £158, joggers, £140, and bag, £158, all Free People. Shoes, £109, Dune. Necklace, £260, Tilly Sveaas. Earrings, £29.99 Pilgrim
