A model walks the runway during the Vivienne Westwood womenswear show in Paris, France, Oct. 3, 2026. (AFP Photo)
October 04, 2026 11:31 AM GMT+03:00
Vivienne Westwood presented its Spring-Summer 2027 collection, “Body and Soul,” at Paris Fashion Week, with creative director Andreas Kronthaler citing African fabrics and a nightgown as starting points. He described the industry as being in a “precarious moment.”
Vivienne Westwood’s design team acknowledges the audience during the brand’s womenswear show in Paris, France, Oct. 3, 2026. (AFP Photo)
Kronthaler, the Austrian widower of Vivienne Westwood, took over the house after her death. He drew on African fabrics and on his own habit of wearing nightgowns for the collection’s typically whimsical designs.
One starting point was a piece of African fabric he bought at the Barbes market in Paris. Another was his decision to wear a nightgown outside during this summer’s heatwaves.
“I just lived my life in it, and I went on my bicycle and shopping and whatnot. And people really liked it,” Kronthaler told AFP. “And I thought that’s nice, my life shirt.”
Actress Natasha Lyonne walked the catwalk in an animal print jacket with nothing underneath. Former supermodel Heidi Klum and actresses Rose McGowan and Paris Jackson sat in the front row.
A model presents a creation featuring an oversized leaf headpiece during the Vivienne Westwood womenswear show in Paris, France, Oct. 3, 2026. (AFP Photo)
Independent house faces hard trading conditions
Asked about the commercial environment for fashion labels, many of whose creative directors are under pressure, Kronthaler acknowledged difficult trading conditions.
“We (Vivienne Westwood) are independent, and there are good sides to this, and of course there are hard sides to this. But it’s okay,” he told AFP. “We are living in a very precarious moment because things are not so secure in fashion.”
Recent news reports have linked several top designers to possible exits. They include Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent, Pierpaolo Piccioli at Balenciaga and Chemena Kamali at Chloe. None of the labels has commented publicly.
A model presents a creation during the Vivienne Westwood womenswear show in Paris, France, Oct. 3, 2026. (AFP Photo)
Hermes presents zip-themed collection
Also on Saturday, French luxury house Hermes presented its women’s collection in the courtyard of the Republican Guard police unit in Paris. The collection used the zip as its leitmotif and the ultra-fine strap as an accessory.
Zips adjusted the length of skirts, ran across leather jackets and down a flared blue pair of trousers.
The family-controlled maker of the Kelly bag generates nearly half of its sales from leather goods and saddlery. The group is also going through a difficult period, although it is performing better than the rest of the sector.
On July 29, its share price fell by as much as 11 percent during the session on the day it released half-year results. Shares are down 39% since the start of the year.
Chief womenswear designer Nadege Vanhee will present the brand’s first haute couture collection in January during Paris Couture Week. British designer Grace Wales Bonner will make her runway debut as artistic director of Hermes menswear at the same time.
October 04, 2026 11:32 AM GMT+03:00
