This summer, Daniel Roseberry deleted his social media apps and went driving around the U.S. East Coast. Since returning to Paris, the American designer has been training for the New York Marathon.
You could sense this extended flow state in his spring 2027 collection for Schiaparelli, which went back to basics with mix-and-match separates in a monochrome palette.
He transformed the basement of the Carrousel du Louvre into a cozy speakeasy where guests including Tate McRae, Marisa Berenson and Thai stars Keng Harit and Namping Napatsakorn, twinning in black and white outfits, sat around café tables sipping Champagne.
House muse Maggie Maurer opened the show in a backwards tuxedo dress that was subtly reproportioned with hourglass boning. A bodysuit was carved into a dramatically plunging neckline, while sculptural frills framed the open back of a little black dress.
In contrast to those precision silhouettes, there was an ease to wide tuxedo shirts with molded satin bibs, and a stretch top draped in laminated jersey, which could be dressed up with a skirt, or down with black pants — depending on the mood of the wearer.
Schiaparelli Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear at Paris Fashion Week
Courtesy of Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli is sold in just a handful of boutiques worldwide, so it has a direct line to its clientele. Best known for its gilded occasion wear, it has padded out its offer with a chic warm-weather wardrobe, which this season riffed on broderie anglaise and spiral knits.
“She’s the concept. It’s all about her,” Roseberry said backstage. “What we show is what we produce, is what she buys, is what she wears. There’s no commercial collection.”
His customer is no wallflower, so he gave her some va-va-voom options, like frilly suits worn barechested with gilded nipple covers. The final jackets honored founder Elsa Schiaparelli with archival embroideries, including the multicolored vegetable motifs from her 1941 collection.
After seven years at the house, Roseberry said he felt the proverbial itch, but came back from his social media blackout with newfound clarity — and a positive mood that felt contagious. His killer soundtrack, with tunes from Mariah Carey, Missy Elliott and Faith Evans, put a bounce in models’ step and a smile on guests’ faces.
“It’s been really nice to let it breathe a little bit,” he said. “There’s a moment too of renewing the vows and recommitting, and also to reimagining what the next chapter is going to be like.”
